Where to start. At the beginning I suppose. My flight was long, noisy and I got zero sleep. The plane was like a party bus. There were multiple weddings on board, the drink cart never stopped and the lights were never dimmed. And dinner didn't get served until midnight. But we arrived in Varadero on time. I made it through customs without incident. Changed some money (the lady just kept handing me small bills with no tally, 20/10/5/3 - 3 dollar bills?, that I had no idea what I ended up with - but when I finally counted, it was fairly close). Then I found a cab and tried to explain to the driver (of a Russian Skoda with 490000km on it) that I needed to find a hotel but I wasn't staying at it. He spoke enough English to eventually understand that I was not that bright. I had been trying to call one hotel in particular from home, the Turquino, but they never answered. He told me they had changed names (and apparently phone numbers). Anyway, the new Turquino, now called Villa Mar del Sol (or something close) is very close to the bus station and not that far from the airport (he pointed it out as we went speeding by). So I made him turn around and I booked myself in for the night before I leave.
Then I wandered over to the bus station. I had about an hour to wait until the Havana bus. As soon as I got there, I was approached by a man who said that if I want, I could take a cab with other people, leaving in 10 minutes for Havana, for only 5$ more than the bus. But, go figure, that never materialized. Eventually, I just bought my bus ticket and hopped on when it punctually arrived. The bus ride was beautiful, coast, farmland, towns, at least until I fell asleep.
Arrived in Havana, had the wherewithall to get off the bus when it stopped en Centro as opposed to the bus station on the edge of town. I took a bicycle cab to the casa for $3. It was only about 2 blocks but it was an overwhelming two blocks so money well spent. Plus I was tired. When we arrived at my Casa, I didn't believe the driver. The house looked like a wreck. But he yelled down the wrecked front entrance and a door opened and I could see the room from the website. I guess all improvement money goes to the inside of houses here. Once inside, I just told my hostess that I had to sleep.
My Casa (after the construction was cleared up so it isn't so scary here)
By the time I woke up, it was 2pm. This is when I discovered that my DEET bug spray had exploded in my bag. And for some reason, the only thing it really destroyed was my thyroid medication, completely saturated (I have since emailed Val who advises, don't take it). And my capri pants but of course, I didn't notice that til later (when I went to put them on the next day, I realized the back was completed soaked/stained) . I wiped down everything as best I could. My room (I was in a back bedroom because my real room was occupied until the next day) stank of bug spray.
Eventually, I went out for a walk along the Malecon, wearing my DEET stained capris. This is when I discovered that Cubans like to talk to tourists. A lot. Even ones who smell of chemicals. I'm not really sure what everyone wanted. The men seem to want to go salsa dancing and the women seem to want shampoo. It is day three now and I try to avoid conversations, everyone wants something. The rumours that most Cubans speak English are just not true, at least on the street. My brain has been very taxed with all of the Spanish it has had to dredge up.
Havana is crazy beautiful. It was very windy that day and the ocean was spraying all over the Malecon and all of the fishermen spead out along it, very picturesque. The buildings are crumbly and decrepid as promised but still have a certain dignity and charm.
Back to my room where I fell back asleep around 6 pm and didn't wake up again until midnight. I have seriously messed up my internal clock, between the overnight flight and the 3 hour time difference.
Day two (Sunday). A bit of a late start. I discovered that my room comes with breakfast so I got fed. Rediscovered that I don't like papaya and newly discovered that I also don't like Guava (which looks like raw pork so I doubt I would like it even if it tasted good and wasn't slimy). I just wandered around the town this time. I found Obispo Street which is the main tourist area. Blocks and blocks of little shops and lots of tourists and locals milling about.
At the end of Obispo is the used book market, basically racks and racks of used books out in the street. I bought some post cards and stamps but that was it. Who knew there was such a variety of books on the Cuban revolution.
Most stores close at 1pm on Sunday so that was the end of my time on Obispo. I stopped for lunch (ham and cheese sandwich) at the Hotel Inglaterra which is the oldest hotel in town and a bit of a landmark. Sandwich was not noteworthy. But I did take half home for dinner. Back to my casa, another nap, sandwich for dinner. At about 8, I decided to see what Havana is like in the dark. It is busy.
I tried to find somewhere with internet. Lonely Planet said to try hotels. I tried three in my area. They all told me that they don't have internet on the weekends or in the evening. Apparently, in Cuba, the internet keeps banking hours. So I bought an ice cream cone instead and went home.
I was getting pretty discouraged. Nothing was going to plan. Every single person I talked to was very discouraging about renting a car. One man on my flight who comes to Cuba 4 times a year told me every horror story about every tourist who is under house arrest in Cuba for traffic accidents. Those that are eventually allowed to leave, go home broke and broken.
(This is where I had to stop yesterday - Tuesday. When I was finally able to find an open internet, I only bought one hour of time. But I also had some homework to do. When I went to buy another card, the person was gone. When I went back later, the cards were sold out. So not only does the internet keep bank hours, the tellers wander away and then they run out of money midday - ARGGG. I am finally getting savvy - today I bought three cards).
Day three (Monday). I was still having trouble sleeping, woke up at midnight and didn't fall back asleep until 5 am but I forced myself to get up at 8:30 so that I didn't waste the whole day.
I stopped in at an Infotur centre (Info about tours - snappy motto: you visit us, we inform you). They had a tour that goes near Playa Larga but, I was informed, there have never ever been enough people interested (6 minimum) for the tour to actually happen - plus, even if it did go, it would be in Spanish. Between the horror stories of rental cars, advice that the bus will drop me on the highway with no way to get a cab and general discouragement from all sides, this is where I gave up on my bird excursion. Unhappy but at least less stressed out.
Then I headed to the Casa de Cafe for some coffee for Richard and Nikki, who don't even know I am out of town. Cigar shop of Bill. I tried to also go to the Museo de Ron (Rum museum) but I couldn't figure out where the museum part was. So, as yet, no rum.
Eventually, I also found the market. The market is awesome. Lots of junk, of course, but occasionally something really cool. and not too expensive.
I also found a decent restaurant near my casa. It is in the Hotel Caribbean but it is Italian. They make a pretty good pizza (half home for dinner) and it is only 2 bucks! With beer for $1.50. Yay.
I am being stared at pretty hard so I better finish some homework and sign off (especially since I crashed this hotel's computer room).
Then I wandered over to the bus station. I had about an hour to wait until the Havana bus. As soon as I got there, I was approached by a man who said that if I want, I could take a cab with other people, leaving in 10 minutes for Havana, for only 5$ more than the bus. But, go figure, that never materialized. Eventually, I just bought my bus ticket and hopped on when it punctually arrived. The bus ride was beautiful, coast, farmland, towns, at least until I fell asleep.
The bus station
Stuff I looked at while I was waiting for the bus
Arrived in Havana, had the wherewithall to get off the bus when it stopped en Centro as opposed to the bus station on the edge of town. I took a bicycle cab to the casa for $3. It was only about 2 blocks but it was an overwhelming two blocks so money well spent. Plus I was tired. When we arrived at my Casa, I didn't believe the driver. The house looked like a wreck. But he yelled down the wrecked front entrance and a door opened and I could see the room from the website. I guess all improvement money goes to the inside of houses here. Once inside, I just told my hostess that I had to sleep.
My Casa (after the construction was cleared up so it isn't so scary here)
the entrance
I could always find it cause it was pink.
Eventually, I went out for a walk along the Malecon, wearing my DEET stained capris. This is when I discovered that Cubans like to talk to tourists. A lot. Even ones who smell of chemicals. I'm not really sure what everyone wanted. The men seem to want to go salsa dancing and the women seem to want shampoo. It is day three now and I try to avoid conversations, everyone wants something. The rumours that most Cubans speak English are just not true, at least on the street. My brain has been very taxed with all of the Spanish it has had to dredge up.
Havana is crazy beautiful. It was very windy that day and the ocean was spraying all over the Malecon and all of the fishermen spead out along it, very picturesque. The buildings are crumbly and decrepid as promised but still have a certain dignity and charm.
Random pictures from my first day.
Crumbly Buildings
The Malecon
he had just reeled that tiny fish in, he was very proud.
did I mention that it was windy.
I wandered around for a while and took pictures, missed my street, backtracked. My first meal was a fish fillet with rice and a Crystal beer. Tasty but I am seeing a serious lack of variety on menus around town.
My first dinner
fish
My first Cuban Beer
Cristobal
Back to my room where I fell back asleep around 6 pm and didn't wake up again until midnight. I have seriously messed up my internal clock, between the overnight flight and the 3 hour time difference.
Day two (Sunday). A bit of a late start. I discovered that my room comes with breakfast so I got fed. Rediscovered that I don't like papaya and newly discovered that I also don't like Guava (which looks like raw pork so I doubt I would like it even if it tasted good and wasn't slimy). I just wandered around the town this time. I found Obispo Street which is the main tourist area. Blocks and blocks of little shops and lots of tourists and locals milling about.
Obispo Street
At the end of Obispo is the used book market, basically racks and racks of used books out in the street. I bought some post cards and stamps but that was it. Who knew there was such a variety of books on the Cuban revolution.
Book Market
Most stores close at 1pm on Sunday so that was the end of my time on Obispo. I stopped for lunch (ham and cheese sandwich) at the Hotel Inglaterra which is the oldest hotel in town and a bit of a landmark. Sandwich was not noteworthy. But I did take half home for dinner. Back to my casa, another nap, sandwich for dinner. At about 8, I decided to see what Havana is like in the dark. It is busy.
My (proper) Room at the Casa
I was getting pretty discouraged. Nothing was going to plan. Every single person I talked to was very discouraging about renting a car. One man on my flight who comes to Cuba 4 times a year told me every horror story about every tourist who is under house arrest in Cuba for traffic accidents. Those that are eventually allowed to leave, go home broke and broken.
(This is where I had to stop yesterday - Tuesday. When I was finally able to find an open internet, I only bought one hour of time. But I also had some homework to do. When I went to buy another card, the person was gone. When I went back later, the cards were sold out. So not only does the internet keep bank hours, the tellers wander away and then they run out of money midday - ARGGG. I am finally getting savvy - today I bought three cards).
Day three (Monday). I was still having trouble sleeping, woke up at midnight and didn't fall back asleep until 5 am but I forced myself to get up at 8:30 so that I didn't waste the whole day.
I stopped in at an Infotur centre (Info about tours - snappy motto: you visit us, we inform you). They had a tour that goes near Playa Larga but, I was informed, there have never ever been enough people interested (6 minimum) for the tour to actually happen - plus, even if it did go, it would be in Spanish. Between the horror stories of rental cars, advice that the bus will drop me on the highway with no way to get a cab and general discouragement from all sides, this is where I gave up on my bird excursion. Unhappy but at least less stressed out.
Cars
Then I headed to the Casa de Cafe for some coffee for Richard and Nikki, who don't even know I am out of town. Cigar shop of Bill. I tried to also go to the Museo de Ron (Rum museum) but I couldn't figure out where the museum part was. So, as yet, no rum.
Eventually, I also found the market. The market is awesome. Lots of junk, of course, but occasionally something really cool. and not too expensive.
I also found a decent restaurant near my casa. It is in the Hotel Caribbean but it is Italian. They make a pretty good pizza (half home for dinner) and it is only 2 bucks! With beer for $1.50. Yay.
I am being stared at pretty hard so I better finish some homework and sign off (especially since I crashed this hotel's computer room).
