Rumour number two: the people of Cuba are nice. Call me a cynic but I think the truth is that practically every Cuban wants something and is nice in order to get it. Every time a Cuban has 'helped' me, it has cost me. My first day here, after I discovered that my bug spray was gone and I still thought I was going to the swamp, I stopped in at the first grocery-type store that I came across looking to buy some more but expecting that it would be next to impossible to find. A woman, who I assumed worked there, asked what I needed. I said repellent, she said no problem and off she went. She came back a few minutes later with the Cuban version of bug spray. 8 bucks. Cheaper than I expected. No, no, don't pay at the cashier, pay me, she said. Then the soon to be infamous line: I have babies and I need milk for them. No problem, she had helped me out. So off we go to another store where the cashier hands her a grocery bag FULL of powdered milk. My lady turns tail and boots it. Wait, I yell after her. Fortunately, she stopped. I asked the cashier the cost of all of that milk - $20! Nope. I gave the woman $5 for her 5 minutes of labour/assistance and called it fair. This was only the first of many. Men and women come up to me in the street and ask for milk. I have a new policy. I will give money within reason to the old, the crippled and those who 'help' me. I would be completely out of milk money (and all other money) if I gave to everyone who asks. I absolutely do not blame them for trying. I blame us for perpetuating the belief that Cubans like us. Colonialist rubbish. I might believe if for a minute if a Cuban who is actually working at a job that requires them to help me, actually helped me without me forcing it. But that doesn't happen either.
Ok, enough of my complaints, back to the daily happenings of my vacation.
Day 4 (Tuesday, I think- I am losing track). I walked to the Cemetery (Necropolis de Cristobal Colon). It is far. I like walking to these offbeat spots as it takes me through some very non-tourist areas. I passed the National Monument where I was asked to move along. No sitting on the Castros' office lawn.
Once I was almost there. again, someone stopped and offered to take me when he saw I was looking at my map. Milk money exchanged and there I was. The cemetery is huge. It is so big, it has four lane roads. It is acres huge. I wandered around for a few hours, not a lot of shade. The graves are white marble and are raised. Many have very impressive statues. I took lots of photos for your future viewing pleasure. There are no official resting spots and I didn't really want to sit on a grave but fortunately, the bereaved often incorporate a bench into their plot. I suppose they know they will need to sit while they visit as it gets hot in there. I had lunch across the street, another hour or two with the dearly departed and some visiting birds then took a cab home.
With my weird sleeping habits, I have been reading a lot. I finished my book that I brought so I had to visit the used book market. I asked a few sellers if they had any English novels. Those are pretty rare. I eventually had one guy find me a copy of Gone With the Wind. I was sceptical but beggars can't be choosers. So now I am reading all about Scarlett and Rhett and Melanie and Ashley. It is actually a good book if you can get past all of the slavery terminology and justification. This particular copy was printed in 1946. It seemed to be in pretty good shape when it was handed to me but now it is disintegrating with every chapter read. Pages are falling out, the spine has detached and most of the pages rip when I turn them.
Next day (Wednesday) was unintentionally expensive (a book of doom day as cousin John would say). I figured I should visit at least one of the zillions of museums in Havana. The Museo de Revolution is practically across the street from my casa so I headed there after breakfast. It seemed pretty deserted but that doesn't always mean much here. So I went up the door and gave it a try. It was chained closed.
As I was walking away some 'nice' people explained that it was under renovation (Museo de Renovation - that works better if you fake a Spanish accept and say it out loud - see, hilarious!). But they would take me to a festival. I explained that I was fine and didn't want to pay any more (milk) money for random assistance. But off we went anyway. Damn my polite Canadianess. I can't complain too much because they took me to a bar/restaurant where a very old guy, (they claim he is a Bueno Vista guy but I'm not 100% on that) was playing. Anyway. Some fun Cuban music with a singer who was so flirty, it was embarrassing. I was introduced to the Bueno Vista guy and he was very nice. They took my picture with him and he kissed me on the cheek. So, all told, 2 rounds of Mojitos for the table and a signed CD and a bit of milk money - $45. Old man kisses - free. I suspect lead singer kisses would have cost me dearly if I hadn't gotten out of there before the end of their second set. I had spaghetti for lunch at my Italian/Caribbean place. No leftovers.
Then that night, I figured I would check out the fort on the other side of the bay. There are actually two forts, right beside each other. I had read that they have a cannon ceremony at 9 pm. So I went over at about 5 so I could wander around and check if there were any interesting birds. BTW - Havana sucks for birds. But I got a few, at least one of which is new - the red legged thrush. Sorry, no picutre. It was more interesting looking than its name suggests.
After getting somewhat lost on some dubious 'trails' as it was getting dark, I eventually found my way to the second fort where the cannons were supposed to happen but I was at least 2 hours early so I asked the guard if there was a restaurant inside. Oops. He was very nice and took me to a nearby hostel and didn't even ask me for any money (the first time). As soon as I entered, I knew I was out of my normal price range. But, it was so nice and they had a kitten wandering around. What's a girl to do. So I ordered Shrimp with Garlic appy followed by chicken - no description given - just chicken. The meal included salad, eggplant that was just there to hold up the olive oil and garlic (Allan could have cooked it and that is saying something), black beans, rice, bread. plus a beer. Between my Shrimp course and my chicken entree course, some American ladies sat at the table next to me and started talking to me. They were very nice and we ended up joining tables. They were a bit silly but very friendly. We compared notes. They had not been asked for milk but were often asked to exchange money on the street. Obviously a better demographic.
Dinner was excellent. There was so much I couldn't finish my chicken. I couldn't take it home either which pains me. I'm still not quite sure how to describe it so 'chicken' will have to do. Total for dinner $30 - again, worth it. Hostel Dona Carmela in case you want to go and see the kitten. No picture of the kitten.
Time to go to the cannon ceremony but the ladies were dithery so I ditched them at the door. Just as well, I just made it in time - I hadn't realized there was an entrance fee plus quite a bit of ground to cover once inside the walls. Costumed men arrived and took some time to prepare the cannon. Everything was very dark. There were tons of people. then BOOM!! Cannon shot, and off we all went - 15 minutes - $8 bucks. Plus cab fare there and back - definitely my most expensive day. I enjoyed all of it though.
Today (Thursday) quickly, I have to save some card room for confirming my flight. I woke up late - I finally slept during normal hours. I headed to the Capital building as that seems to be a tourist highlight. I really haven't done much touristy stuff. I mostly just wander around and absorb the city. But my American ladies was aghast that I hadn't done 'anything'. I must go to the Tropicana, Hemingway's house, the Floridida etc etc. I figured the Capital Building would do. But alas, it is closed for renovations (Capital Rebuilding - haha - no accent required for that one!).
So, another touristy thing to do is go to the National Hotel. It has tons of history, mob, revolution, movie stars etc. I mozzied around a bit and then had a sandwich and a beer (I had meant to have a mojito as they were invented there but I forgot) and sat at an outside table that looked out over the water. Very lovely. I would have taken a picture of the seating area but they were making a movie and there was a big truck parked in front with the words Sunset Vista - irony noted as it totally blocked my Vista once I moved to the veranda to finish my drink. In fact, for my very cheap-o lunch, I really took advantage of the seating opportunities. I spent hours there, just sitting in various places. Again, it was far and I had walked. Plus, I had finally found a Rum store and had stocked up on the heaviest bottle in there (or at least that's how it felt).
National Hotel
Anyway, I am almost out of time and I have a half sandwich waiting for me at my Casa, not to mention Scarlett. How will she save Tara? Rhett to the rescue, I am guessing.
Bus to Varadero tomorrow morning and then home on Saturday. See you soon.
Ok, enough of my complaints, back to the daily happenings of my vacation.
Day 4 (Tuesday, I think- I am losing track). I walked to the Cemetery (Necropolis de Cristobal Colon). It is far. I like walking to these offbeat spots as it takes me through some very non-tourist areas. I passed the National Monument where I was asked to move along. No sitting on the Castros' office lawn.
Sights along the way
National Monuments (not very pretty but you get them anyway)
Che
Yes, that's a vulture flying over Castro's headquarters - fill in your own joke
The Cemetery
the entrance
proof that I have no shame
more proof
there were alot of graves packed into this cemetery
More Cemetery Pictures (what can I say, I like cemeteries)
the cemetery was so big there were street signs
this poor guy ended up part of the road
this was my favourite grave so you get two shots of it
same headstone, close up
Next day (Wednesday) was unintentionally expensive (a book of doom day as cousin John would say). I figured I should visit at least one of the zillions of museums in Havana. The Museo de Revolution is practically across the street from my casa so I headed there after breakfast. It seemed pretty deserted but that doesn't always mean much here. So I went up the door and gave it a try. It was chained closed.
Museo De Revolution (closed so no pictures inside)
As I was walking away some 'nice' people explained that it was under renovation (Museo de Renovation - that works better if you fake a Spanish accept and say it out loud - see, hilarious!). But they would take me to a festival. I explained that I was fine and didn't want to pay any more (milk) money for random assistance. But off we went anyway. Damn my polite Canadianess. I can't complain too much because they took me to a bar/restaurant where a very old guy, (they claim he is a Bueno Vista guy but I'm not 100% on that) was playing. Anyway. Some fun Cuban music with a singer who was so flirty, it was embarrassing. I was introduced to the Bueno Vista guy and he was very nice. They took my picture with him and he kissed me on the cheek. So, all told, 2 rounds of Mojitos for the table and a signed CD and a bit of milk money - $45. Old man kisses - free. I suspect lead singer kisses would have cost me dearly if I hadn't gotten out of there before the end of their second set. I had spaghetti for lunch at my Italian/Caribbean place. No leftovers.
The band
me buying a CD
the over attentive lead singer.
Fort #1
it looks like a giant ship (note the mast)
the ubiquitous photo through a castle window (in this case, through a rifle hole in a fort)
On the beach below the fort at sunset overlooking Havana
Cannons facing the harbour
Dinner was excellent. There was so much I couldn't finish my chicken. I couldn't take it home either which pains me. I'm still not quite sure how to describe it so 'chicken' will have to do. Total for dinner $30 - again, worth it. Hostel Dona Carmela in case you want to go and see the kitten. No picture of the kitten.
Just one of the many animals hanging around the restaurant
my shrimp appy
Time to go to the cannon ceremony but the ladies were dithery so I ditched them at the door. Just as well, I just made it in time - I hadn't realized there was an entrance fee plus quite a bit of ground to cover once inside the walls. Costumed men arrived and took some time to prepare the cannon. Everything was very dark. There were tons of people. then BOOM!! Cannon shot, and off we all went - 15 minutes - $8 bucks. Plus cab fare there and back - definitely my most expensive day. I enjoyed all of it though.
Cannon Ceremony at Fort #2
Today (Thursday) quickly, I have to save some card room for confirming my flight. I woke up late - I finally slept during normal hours. I headed to the Capital building as that seems to be a tourist highlight. I really haven't done much touristy stuff. I mostly just wander around and absorb the city. But my American ladies was aghast that I hadn't done 'anything'. I must go to the Tropicana, Hemingway's house, the Floridida etc etc. I figured the Capital Building would do. But alas, it is closed for renovations (Capital Rebuilding - haha - no accent required for that one!).
Capital Building (closed)
So, another touristy thing to do is go to the National Hotel. It has tons of history, mob, revolution, movie stars etc. I mozzied around a bit and then had a sandwich and a beer (I had meant to have a mojito as they were invented there but I forgot) and sat at an outside table that looked out over the water. Very lovely. I would have taken a picture of the seating area but they were making a movie and there was a big truck parked in front with the words Sunset Vista - irony noted as it totally blocked my Vista once I moved to the veranda to finish my drink. In fact, for my very cheap-o lunch, I really took advantage of the seating opportunities. I spent hours there, just sitting in various places. Again, it was far and I had walked. Plus, I had finally found a Rum store and had stocked up on the heaviest bottle in there (or at least that's how it felt).
National Hotel
my view from my lunch table
my National Hotel lunch
the fountain
the view from my second seat on the veranda
Anyway, I am almost out of time and I have a half sandwich waiting for me at my Casa, not to mention Scarlett. How will she save Tara? Rhett to the rescue, I am guessing.
Bus to Varadero tomorrow morning and then home on Saturday. See you soon.
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